Refrigerator Compressor Troubleshooting (Complete Guide) | Repair & Replace
Refrigerator Compressor Troubleshooting (Complete Guide) | Repair & Replace
Compressor not working? In this episode of Repair & Replace, Vance shows to troubleshoot the refrigerator compressor and start components. If the compressor is not starting, it could be a problem with the start relay, capacitor or the overload protector. If the compressor is faulty, then the refrigerator will not start and will not cool properly. This video also shows how to test the compressor windings with a multimeter.
Need an exact replacement part? Use the model lookup tool here: https://www.amresupply.com/lookup
Order refrigerator repair parts online: https://www.amresupply.com/catalog/Refrigerator-Parts-And-Service-Products-632667
Playlist: Refrigerator Troubleshooting & Repairs: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLCo9SMjkdWBxXf2GEiSiunxAlN3ENxXGq
Refrigerator Won’t Start? (Troubleshooting Guide) https://youtu.be/ngPh1FJtvs8
Inverter Control Board | Repair & Replace https://youtu.be/4_c978da0ZQ
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00:00 Intro
01:10 How it Works
03:45 What You’ll Need
03:53 Model Lookup
04:14 Getting Started
05:13 Start Component Removal
06:33 Compressor Tests
08:47 Overload Protector Testing
09:49 Start Relay Testing
12:06 Capacitor Testing
12:55 Inverter Control Board
13:35 Start Component Replacement
14:24 Finishing Up
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This applies to Whirlpool, Frigidaire, Kenmore, Maytag, LG, General Electric, and Samsung refrigerators.
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This is an incredibly useful video!
So my upright freezer failed around 3 weeks ago. I couldn’t find anything wrong with the start relay, or motor coils, the capacitor was good, and all fans were coming on. After cleaning it seemed to be working again so we used it for another week before it failed again. The compressor was buzzing and very hot to touch.
I figure that the compressor was stalling or seizing, but would it work intermittently if that was the case?
Something you said in the video makes me wonder if the thermistor might not have been touching the compressor properly to shut off the start coil.
Man, everything checks out perfect for compressor, and my 2/1 overload protector/relay. , If I have everything plugged Except the compressor all lights and fans work. As soon as the compressor starts it shorts out my GFI plug… must be my inverterboard …. it’s crazy because all I did was remove the back panel because the inned condenser coils frosted, I jist let it melt into a towel for 2 days.
Wow… thanks
I’m reading about 11 ohms at each configuration. Bad compressor?
Thank You, very much appreciated.
Seriously I Watched very first time but amazing you delivered the core concept
Like everyone else is saying, incredible video, the relay was bad, and now for 40 bucks,I don’t have to replace the while thing. Now even looking for another place, I’m ordering from you guys every time!
Hands down the best video out there on the subject…hitting the notes there with the values regardless should add up…plus you had a variety of relays. Thank you
The compressor i have starts but shorts cycle nothing wrong with the thermostate
This is the best video I’ve ever seen
Hi can anyone help me
Thank you for this video. You are a great teacher and love how you show really good angles of what you are doing. I have a personal project this Christmas break and want to repair a mini fridge. Looks like there are only a couple of components so shouldn’t be too hard to narrow it down. I do have a question if you don’t mind, why do overload protectors go bad? I am thinking a spike in current but if that was the case. Could it be that replacing it will lead to the same outcome? Thank you for sharing your insight!
If there is carbon build up on the electrical connections then its possible you may have poor electrical conductivity between the connections and mains to begin with.
This is really Professional Teaching 🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌👌🙏
Hi i have lg refrigerator lmsx27626d model one day water link from refrigerator and temperature wasn’t cold enough on both of place and i check compressor but seems working i felt vibration and all the fans are working and i tried test mode all find
Do you think should i refill the freon or any suggestions to check?
Awesome! Thanks
Excellent video
friendly yet coherent video. loved the format and the content.
🎁
Well explain thanks for the video
My refrigerator (Samsung RS277ACRS/XAA-0000) stopped working after a power outage.
The ohm readings on the compressor are:
C-S: 0.4 ohm
C-R: 3.4 ohm
I was wondering if such a low reading on the start winding is normal for this model.
The Start Relay (thermistor, DA35-00135A) was not showing continuity (R = 1300 ohms), so I replaced it. The new one couldn’t start the compressor either. When I test the new one, it also does not have continuity (R = 4000 ohms). I do no know if I got a bad start relay, or my compressor is bad and it is just burning the start relays.
The overload protector has continuity, and seems to be fine.
Thank you very much. Saved an older oddball under-the-counter frig from the landfill.
Great series on fridge diagnosis, helped me to locate and replace a defective startup relay, was able to purchase the part locally, would have bought from you but was in urgent need of the fix. Up and running again within 2 hours.
It would be a crazy if you don’t understand this,,💜💜🙌🏻 really amazing explanation mam, This should be payable
Thank you for this. Quality content; filmed well; and at a pace that most people will be able to follow.
This reflects wonderfully on your brand. (Unfortunately, you are not located in Europe too, so I am unable to purchase from you).
Thank you from the far away country that is known as The Netherlands.
Particularly good parts:
– "You will need [list of tools]",
– Showing different examples of the same part,
– "The 2 smallest voltages should amount to the largest one" (when diagnosing the compressor)
Bonus points for ‘don’t measure painted parts; only exposed metal’
EXCELLENT VIDEO FOR TECHNICIANS TO LEARN TOO. THANK YOU A MILLION TIME
Thanks, So we have been replacing the whole compressor instead of just the faulty components!
Here’s another one for you. I had a refrigerator and the lights came on and the evaporator fan was running, but the compressor was not. I got down there to take a picture of the relay and while photographing it saw that mice had chewed up the ground wires! So that is another problem to include in your troubleshooting work up.
My is, the fridge will work then suddenly u will hear noise, then all the ice will melt, after one hour to three hours den it will start again please what’s Rong
I’ve been struggling to diagnose my freezer. Can you help me?
I got it from someone who said it worked but it didn’t when I got it to my place. I plug it in and it never cools down; I think I smell a fait chemical smell when I open the lid. I looked at the internal components and have been doing some testing.
When I plug it in I hear it try to come on but then after a few seconds I hear it click off.
I tested the capacitor and it’s rated as 12mf but the when i put a multimeter on it for ohms it climbs to 20 ohms.
The starter relay shows continuity all three ways.
The compressor ohms reading measures 10.6-11 ohms between the start and run winding terminals, maybe 7.5 for the start to common but there was a a wide spread of variability and then 3.5-5.5 on the run to common.
Compressor was drawing about 12.2 amps and the LRA value on the compressor is 14.6. (for what it’s worth I measured amperage going into and coming out of the thermostat and it was around the same, varying from slightly below 12 to slightly above 12v.
This evening I just replaced the capacitor and it didn’t help and then I replaced the relay, too, but the result is the same, I hear some faint noise like it’s trying to come on and then it clicks off. After I replaced both the capacitor and the relay I noticed pungent odor, not a sweet smell like I thought freon smells like, and then when I went to unplug the relay from the compressor I noticed that it was very hot on the top of it.
Where do I go from here? By process of elimination I think I can just assume that it’s the compressor but I’m someone who wants to understand the why and as far as I understand given these values the compressor should be functional. So can you help me fix my freezer and understand what’s going on?
Thank for your time if you decide to give it!
Thanks 👍
I have a Kenmore 1720 freezer that wil start and run but not shut down, temp going down to -10
Fantastic troubleshooting video. Best on the net. Thank you!
Thank u for your best teaching.
Your are the best instructors who solves all problems of the unit . Thank you.
Please explain marine fridges like in our sailboat
Great video
That’s a cool video! thankyou for sharing.
Good video
this video is worth 12,000$
Excellent clear explanation. Thanks.
what if you have 9.4, 6.6, and 5.6 for ohm readings…
No finding the correct parts is a challenge
thank you for that great video I have a ge profile French door with freezer on the bottom my compressor was making a clicking sound and the compressor would not turn on I replaced the start relay and a new capacitor it lasted a week working normally and now I am getting that clicking sound again in your professional opinion what else can it be thank you in advance
I’ve got a indesit UFAN 400NF freezer. I have measured 49ohms across the bottom two pins on the compressor and 29 and 20 on the others. This is a fair bit higher than the values on your example but they add up to 49. No shorts to earth.
When I measure the PTC I get 16.9 ohms at room temp…stick it in another freezer to cool it and I got 20 odd ohms. Continuity from the ground pin on the combined relay/ptc block to the spade on the other side is 1.4 ohms.
So all the above are away from the values in your example. Are they significant enough or just manufacturer variance?
I also measured the capacitor and that should be 3mf (~5%) it measures 2.5mf so out of spec. Do you think it’s just the capacitor or possibly the combined relay block as well?
Thank you and a good clear video on how to test, well delivered.
WoW
The diagram at 1:20 is a dead short between the cold control and the defrost control. L1 to N.
Huge flashes and sparks and loud noise whenever the fridge was plugged in and the compressor started up. I removed the plastic box/cover and found a few different wire’s insulation had either hardened or hardened and then flaked off, exposing its conductor to other components. When I touched the remaining insulation on the wires it just broke off or fell off in pieces. All I can figure is this was due to very high heat from a dying compressor, or from an inefficient compressor that had to stay running longer than it’s rated duty cycle, causing the heat buildup and the subsequent breakdown of the insulation, which then caused wires to touch, leading to the arcing.
This video is very stupid. Everyone knows the first thing to check when something is not work is to check the power. Check the power going to the compressor first before checking anything else. If no 120V going to the compressor, then no need to check anything else.